Juan Francisco Farina Los Loros Tinto 2021
This ‘garage’ winery in the volcanic hills of Tenerife turns out stunningly pure, mineral-rich whites and reds, primarily from the native Listán Blanco and Listán Negro varieties. Located in the village of Arafo, with just 2.5 hectares of vineyards climbing to altitudes north of 1,000 meters, Juan Francisco Fariña Peréz is part of the modern wine revolution on the Canary Islands, which, while situated off the northwest coast of Africa, are an “autonomous community” of Spain. His micro-winery is in the Valle de Güímar, an appellation (DO) on the east coast of Tenerife, perhaps the best-known among the Canaries for wine production. This tinto (red) is primarily comprised of the native Listán Negro grape, with small additions of Tintilla and the white Listán Blanco, creating a soulful, high-energy red full of dark berry fruit, hints of smoke and ash, black pepper, and dried herbs and flowers. Hand-harvested fruit from some of the highest-elevation vineyards in Europe is 20% de-stemmed, then fermented and aged in a mix of stainless steel tanks and used French oak barrels. Great freshness but also deep concentration from 90-year-old vines rooted in black volcanic soils.