Forlong "80/20" 2019
A lustrous, light, dusty pink to look at, and just a touch cloudy. The nose rings out with the chalk of the Albariza, and this is filled with peach pith, musk stick and ruby grapefruit/pomelo. It smells unprotected, but clearly hasn't caught anything. Lighter and more linear that its sister, 80-20 has more saline sea-dash, candied lemon and citrus rind up front, and gains jasmin, honey, and herbal balm. The finish, run by wild white fruit tannin is a tangle, a riot, a thrill. The affect of the skin contact serves to accentuate line in this beauty, rather than blurring it. There is no theft of identity via winemaking, with varietal and terroir characters in full view.